Step 1: find out where the water is leaking. There is always a source of water leakage. Generally, water pipes are embedded in the wall. When the water pipe leaks, the wall is wet, but it is still possible to see where the water leak is. The water flows from top to bottom, so if you follow the wet marks on the wall, you can still find the leaking water pipe.

Step 2: Mark the leaking water pipe. If it is said that the water pipe is indeed inside the wall, then workers must be asked to punch holes and open the wall. If the water pipe is leaking outside the wall, it is easy to handle. Check what material the water pipe is made of. Such as plastic, steel, PV and so on.

Step 3: waterproof belt. You can buy this at a hardware store, it's very cheap. Wrap a few layers of waterproof tape (also called waterproof paper) on the outside of the leaking water pipe, then wrap a layer of foam glue on the outside, then wrap it with waterproof paper on the outside of the foam glue, and then put it on the waterproof paper Wrap the outer layer with foam glue, and finally put glass glue on it!

Pressure test
Mechanically connected plastic pipes need to be subjected to six system suitability tests: internal pressure test, thermal cycle test, bending test, pull-out test, cyclic pressure shock test and vacuum test. Plastic pipes connected by hot melt only need to do the first two .
The internal pressure test is the most commonly used test, which is generally completed by the installation company, the owner, and the project leader.

1. Tool testing tools
Including pressure test pump, adjustable wrench, hexagonal outer wire, raw material tape, plug, etc. Figure 1 is a simple pressure test tool of 30cm square, including jack, pressure gauge, water tank and connecting hose.

2. Preparation
2.1. Connect the cold and hot water pipes to be tested to form a circle with a hose, and the pressure at this time is 0.
2.2. Seal the outlets except the lowest outlet of the pressure test pipeline with plugs. It is recommended to use solid and durable copper plugs and other metal plugs.

3. Pressure test
3.1. Open the water inlet valve, slowly inject water from the lowest water outlet of the pipeline, and tighten the pressure test pump switch after fully exhausting the gas in the pipeline.
3.2. Close the main water inlet valve and slowly increase the pressure of the pipeline. After the pressure is increased to the specified test pressure, observe whether the joints and plugs are leaking.
3.3. Welded pipes such as PPR, aluminum-plastic PPR, steel-plastic PPR, etc. are kept for more than 30 minutes, and non-welded pipes such as aluminum-plastic pipes and galvanized pipes are kept for 4 hours. At the end of the test time, if the pressure drop does not exceed 0.05MPa, it is qualified.

4. Pressure relief
After confirming that the pressure test is qualified, connect the end of the pipe to the water distribution piece, supply water at working pressure, turn on the water distribution piece in batches, and check whether the water outlets are unblocked.

5. Relevant standards and precautions
5.1. The test pressure should be 1.5 times the working pressure of the piping system, and should not be less than 0.6MPa. The pressure value is generally between 0.8MPa-1.5MPa, not the larger the better, and the longer the pressurization time.
5.2. The pipelines buried in the surface of the floor and the walls must undergo a hydraulic test before sealing the groove.
5.3. The pipe should be fixed during pressure test, the pipe joints should be exposed, and the water outlets of the pipes should not be connected with water distribution appliances.
5.4. For pipelines connected by hot melt, the hydraulic test should be carried out 24 hours after the pipeline installation is completed.
5.5. Other reasons for the unqualified test: the plug is not installed properly, and the shut-off valve type total inlet valve has quality problems.